Zion National Park

Zion National Park is a secluded canyon where red and white sandstone cliffs of southwest Utah tower hundreds of feet above the Virgin River, which meanders through a network of narrow canyons. Ancient nomadic Indian groups began visiting this region approximately 7,000 years ago. As people adopted a more sedentary lifestyle, groups like the Pueblos, Fremont Indians, and Southern Paiute began to settle in this area they called Mukuntuweap which means “straight canyon”. By the late 1800s, the Native Americans had migrated out and the Mormon pioneers began to arrive. They named the area Zion, which is ancient Hebrew for “sanctuary” or “refuge”. The deep and spectacular canyon of this protected portion of the Virgin River Valley offers a safe haven to wildlife and humans alike.

Few outsiders visited the region until a federal land survey in 1908 exposed the area to the general public. The natural beauty of the region left such an impression on the surveyors, that they encouraged President Taft to protect it. On July 31, 1909, Taft set aside approximately 16,000 acres for Mukuntuweap National Monument which he noted as a “labyrinth of remarkable canyons with highly ornate and beautifully colored walls, in which are plainly recorded the geological events of past ages.” In 1918, Mukuntuweap National Monument became Zion National Monument, and in 1919 the named changed again to Zion National Park. In 1937, President Roosevelt set aside over 36,000 additional acres for a second Zion National Monument, which is now referred to as Kolob Canyon, and it was incorporated into Zion National Park in 1956.

Visitors to Zion National Park can enter the park either from the south through the resort community of Springdale or from the east via the historic Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel. Just after the South Entrance is the Zion Canyon Visitor Center as well as the Watchman Campground where I stayed. The seven-mile Zion Canyon Scenic Drive that follows the Virgin River up the canyon is closed to private vehicles. In order to access the trailheads and overlooks along the scenic drive, visitors either need to use the free shuttle service or cycle. I used the shuttle service daily and found it an excellent and convenient way to get around the park.

The northernmost stop on the scenic drive is Temple of Sinawava and this is the trailhead for the two most popular hikes in Zion. The Riverside Walk is a two-mile paved trail which follows the Virgin River in a deep canyon. Along the hike, there are spectacular views of the sandstone canyon walls and adjacent river. I also spotted a tarantula on the trail during my hike and later learned from a ranger that this is their mating season. The Narrows is one of the nation’s most famous and unique hikes. The trail is actually in the river and hikers have to navigate up the narrow canyon, sometimes as wide as only 20 feet, while wading through the water. Hikers can rent waders and waterproof boots from outfitters in Springdale, but they need to pay attention to weather conditions and water levels because the trail is subject to dangerous flash flooding. With my bad knees and plantar fasciitis, I elected not to attempt this nine-mile hike over a rough, uneven river bed.

In prehistoric times, California condors flew over much of the U.S., but by 1982, the world population dwindled to 22 individuals. The last remaining wild condors were captured in the 1980s and a captive breeding program was begun to protect this bird from extinction. The California condor is slowing coming back with a population of roughly 400 birds, half of which fly freely in the wild. Over the past three decades, captive-bred birds have been released in California, Baja California, and northern Arizona. Roughly 70 condors live wild in Arizona and Utah, and Zion rests in the middle of this realm. While I was up in the Temple of Sinawava area, I had the pleasure of witnessing one of these majestic birds soaring high above the sandstone cliffs…what a treat!

The Grotto stop along the scenic drive is another popular destination for hikers in Zion National Park. Across the street from the shuttle stop and after crossing a pedestrian bridge over the Virgin River, visitors come to two trailheads: West Rim and Kayenta trails. The four-mile West Rim Trail up to Scout Lookout gains over 1,000 feet in elevation and offers spectacular views from the top of the hike. It’s a strenuous hike almost completely uphill to Scout Lookout where the trail switchbacks on a cliff face with long drop-offs. The park service doesn’t recommend this hike for children or anyone afraid of heights. Once you reach Scout Lookout, the West Rim Trail forks with the trail to the famed 5,990-foot high peak, Angels Landing. Anyone wishing to hike to the top of Angels Landing is required to have a permit filed with the park service.

The Kayenta Trail is a two-mile climb to the Emerald Pools and the trail that connects these three pools. You first descend into the Lower Emerald Pool which lies at the base of a sandstone cliff with the Middle Emerald Pool overhead. Water flows over the cliff edge above in several spots creating spectacular water falls and an oasis below. A short quarter-of-a-mile climb takes you to the Middle Emerald Pool which flows through channels carved in the sandstone over the cliff to the Lower Emerald Pool below. As you continue to climb, you arrive at the largest of the three pools, Upper Emerald Pool, which lies at the base of a huge sandstone amphitheater with high canyon walls as the backdrop.

The Pa’rus Trail is a nice, two-mile paved route that connects the Zion Canyon Visitor Center and Canyon Junction. The trail follows the Virgin River and has several pedestrian bridges crossing over the flowing water. “Pa’rus” is Paiute for “bubbling water”. A short quarter-mile walk off the Pa’rus Trail is a museum dedicated to the human presence in Zion, but the real gem is what’s behind the museum. The Towers of the Virgin is a series of several lofty sandstone monoliths on the west side of Zion Canyon which rise to as high as 7,810 feet. They include the prominent peaks West Temple, Sundial, Altar of Sacrifice, and Beehives. Another landmark hidden high on a cliff along the route is the delicate Crawford Arch. This natural bridge was first discovered by pioneer William L. Crawford in the late 1800s.

The Watchman is a 6,545-foot peak that overlooks the entrance to Zion National Park and Zion Canyon. A popular hike from the Visitor Center is the Watchman Trail which is a three-mile route that climbs out of the valley up the canyon walls to give you spectacular views of the park. From the overlook at the end of the trail, you have great views of the town of Springdale, the Watchman Campground where I stayed, Towers of the Virgin across the valley, and up the length of Zion Canyon. It is a workout climbing the canyon, but the views are well worth it!