Homer & Seward
Homer, Alaska
Located on the southwestern Kenai Peninsula on the north shore of Kachemak Bay, Homer is known as the “Halibut Capital of the World” and people travel here from all over the globe for world-class halibut fishing. Early Russian explorers to the region discovered smoldering coal seams jutting from the clay bluffs and the name of the bay, Kachemak, is most likely derived from a Russian word meaning “smoky bay”. No one is certain what caused the burning coal, but there is an estimated 400 million tons of lignite and bituminous coal in the Homer vicinity.
The town is named after Homer Pennock who was a gold prospector who arrived in the area in 1896. He established a mining camp and was instrumental in the early development of the town, although gold mining in the region was short-lived. Most gold seekers left for the goldfields in Hope and Sunrise. A successful coal mine operated at Homer’s Bluff Point from the late 1800s through World War I. A railroad carried the coal out to the end of the Homer Spit where it was then shipped to an energy hungry nation. Today, the erosion of these bluffs still drops huge fragments of coal on the beaches below, creating a plentiful supply of winter fuel for residents.
The Homer Spit is a 4.5-mile narrow bar of gravel that juts out into Kachemak Bay. In geological terms, it is known as a terminal moraine that was left behind by a receding glacier that formed Kachemak Bay about 15,000 years ago. The Spit is constantly changing as a result of natural and human forces. In 1964, following a tsunami caused by the Good Friday Earthquake, the Spit sank 4 to 6 feet and several buildings had to be moved to higher ground. The Sterling Highway which begins in Anchorage terminates at the end of the Spit and serves as its only road. Adjacent to the road is a multi-use bike and walking path that spans the entire length of the Spit. Today, the Homer Spit is the site of a major deep-water dock servicing both recreational and commercial fishing. In addition, the Spit is a major tourist destination in Alaska with numerous restaurants, galleries, seasonal shops, a live theater, and lodging.
During my visit to Homer, I had a beach front campsite at Heritage RV Park right on the Spit. Front my site, I was able to watch sea otters and seals swimming as well as salmon jumping in Kachemak Bay. Adjacent to the campground was the Nick Dudiak Fishing Lagoon where anglers catch salmon that have gotten trapped when the tide goes out. One evening, I enjoyed a boy named Avery catch a large salmon all by himself and then have to chase the beast as it made a run for the water: dinner was saved! The location was awesome because I was able to walk down to the restaurants where I enjoyed halibut tacos, halibut fish ‘n chips, and I even discovered a great gelato shop on the Spit. I really enjoyed my stay on the Homer Spit and I can certainly understand why it is so popular.
Seward, Alaska
Seward has historically been an important transportation hub for Alaska’s mining, exploration, fishing, and trapping industries. The town was established in 1903 by railroad surveyors as an ocean terminal and supply depot. The city is named after William H. Seward who was the Secretary of State under President Andrew Johnson and instrumental in the purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867. Incidentally, this is the same Seward who was stabbed several times on the same night that Lincoln was assassinated.
This picturesque community sits on the edge of Resurrection Bay with high, snow-capped mountains covered in spruce and alder trees surrounding it. The bay was named in 1792 by Russian fur trader and explorer Alexander Baranof who got caught in a bad storm while sailing in the area. He found shelter in the bay and named it Resurrection because the day was the Russian Sunday of the Resurrection (Easter). In 1910, the Iditarod Trail was surveyed to provide mail service between Seward and Nome. Teams of sled dogs provided mail service over the 938-mile-long route until they were replaced by airplanes in 1924. Although the famed Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race now runs between Weed and Nome, it is Seward that is recognized as “Mile 0” of the Iditarod trail which is recognized as a National Historic Trail.
Today, Seward’s economy is based on fishing and tourism. The natural deep waters of Resurrection Bay are perfect for large cruise ships and the docks in Seward are frequented by cruise ships during the summer season. The Alaksa Sea Life Center is a marine educational center located in Seward and has wonderful exhibits on the abundant marine life in Alaskan waters. I particularly enjoyed the exhibit on the puffins and harbor seals. Seward is also the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park and the harbor is full of tour operators offering everything from boat cruises to kayak tours. Kenai Fjords is home to nearly 40 glaciers that flow from the Harding Icefield and the icy waters thrive with wildlife. I will cover my visit to Kenai Fjords National Park in a separate post.
While visiting Seward, I stayed at the municipal Resurrection Campground which was right on the banks of Resurrection Bay. From my campsite, I had spectacular views of the snow-capped mountains across the bay and could watch bald eagles soar and sea otters play in the water. There was a paved walkway running through the campground that led to all the town’s attractions including Seward Harbor, restaurants, and shops making it a convenient location. I really enjoyed my visit to Seward finding that Resurrection Bay offered some of the most spectacular views I’ve seen in Alaska.
